Q&A: Wearing Glasses with a Hockey Helmet
Cristina asked: “My son wears glasses but when it comes to hockey he has to take them off. His glasses shift or move when he is wearing his helmet. Sports glasses are too bulky and the helmet gets too tight. I am concerned about buying a bigger helmet size because of safety. Not to mention that the glasses gets foggy after a few minutes on the ice. Do you have suggestions? He is only 7 years old and can’t wear contacts.”
Answer: “This is not an uncommon problem. I wear glasses myself, but am able to wear contacts so I do not have a problem. You definitely do not want to wear a bigger helmet; there is too much risk if the helmet is too big.
I have seen some kids that have glasses with a strap similar to swimming goggles to hold them in place without any extra bulk. I have seen others wear smaller and thinner wire frame glasses that fit. The only other option is to go to a shop and try a couple different helmets on and see if one model fits better than another with his glasses on. There is a very good anti-fog product that we carry called Fog Zero, it is used for snowmobiling and snow skiing as well and it works very good.”
Editor’s Note: Special thanks to Kevin from HockeyX.com for answering this question. HockeyX.com specializes in providing hockey families with the best service and prices to meet your hockey equipment needs. For more, please visit HockeyX.com.
If you have a question, we would love to help. Please email us and we will do our best to answer your question.
Do This Before Buying Sports Equipment
When shopping for sports equipment, keep in mind that most retailers offer discounts. Don’t make a significant purchase before checking to see if a discount or special offer is available for the equipment you want to buy.
To check for available discounts, all you need to do is execute a search on Google, Yahoo!, or other major search engines. In the search box, simply put the retailer’s name and the word “Coupon” in parenthesis.
You can also replace the word “coupon” with “discount code” to find additional discounts. For most retailers, you can usually get at least 10 percent off or free shipping with your order.
RetailMeNot.com is a helpful website that offers over 25,000 discount codes for online stores. Simply go to the site and enter the URL of the store from which you are purchasing equipment (the site also offers codes for many other online stores). You will see a listing of promotional codes with their success rating. Start with the codes that have the highest success rating and work your way down.
Doing a quick online check for discounts and coupons is a simple step that will take you only a few minutes but can end up saving you quite a bit of money.
Protect Your Player – Choose the Right Hockey Helmet
The hockey helmet is the single most important piece of equipment that you can put on your child. The most critical factor of the helmet is fit. Check to see if your child’s helmet is adjusted correctly by placing the helmet on the child’s head and have the child shake his or her head from side to side. If the child’s head moves more than the helmet does, then the helmet is not tight enough. It has to fit snugly and not move around on the child’s head.
Also make sure the helmet is approved. Every approved helmet will have a CSA and HECC label on the back. These labels signify that the helmet meets the minimal certification standards. The higher-end helmets can exceed these minimal standards by as much as 50%. Experts in outfitting youth hockey players suggest getting the most protective helmet you can.
Foam Type
There are various densities in the interior foam used in helmets, resulting in different levels of protection. The more advanced helmets combine various foams to offer the maximum protection and comfort. The most common foam types are explained in more detail below.
Single Density – Single-density foam is most widely used in lower-end helmets. This type of foam is softer foam that is comfortable and fairly light. The single density foam will offer the least protection. Equipment experts recommend this type of foam only for young beginners, as collisions or falls with this group do not result in high impacts.
Dual Density – Dual-density foams are a combination of softer single density foam joined together with harder, lighter, and more protective closed-cell foam. The softer foam will be closest to your head to keep the comfort level high, and the harder foam is on the outside between the inside of the shell and the softer foam. Dual-density foams come in various protection levels depending on the amount of each foam that is used. Dual-density foam is the most widely used foam type, as it offers the best combination of protection and weight at the best price.
EPP Foam – EPP foam is the most protective of all foams. It is also called concussion foam, as it is the best at preventing concussions. This foam is designed to absorb and spread the impact throughout the foam to keep the head from taking the shock. Once the foam experiences a huge shock it should not be used again as it loses its protective abilities. EPP is designed to protect your head from one big impact. EPP is used extensively in other applications such as bicycling helmets, race-car helmets, and downhill skiing helmets, to name a few. EPP is becoming more widely used, and as a result this is bringing the price down. EPP foams are very protective and light. This foam offers the highest protection of the three types of foam. Helmets that offer EPP will have memory pads placed throughout the helmet for comfort.
Shell
Factors in shell design include vents, adjustments, and fit. Studies have lead designers to produce shells that help vent the interior of the helmet. The vents are designed to force air through the helmet while you are skating to keep your head cool to help with fatigue and overheating. Helmets that can be adjusted in various ways will help you secure the best fit. The adjustment options that are available vary from helmet to helmet. The three most common adjustments are the length from front to back, side adjustments to keep the helmet tighter, and an adjustment on the back of the helmet to secure it to the occipital bone to keep it from sliding up and forward. Some helmets will also feature toolless adjustments. These make it very easy to get a perfect fit.
Warning: Hockey Helmets Recalled Due to Injury Hazard
The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with the firm named below, announced a voluntary recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed.
Name of Product: Hockey Helmets
Units: About 1,000
Distributor: Reebok-CCM Hockey U.S. Inc., of Montpelier, Vt.
Hazard: The helmet’s chinstrap can unexpectedly disengage while in use. If this happens, the helmet can fall off, posing a head and neck injury risk to consumers.
Incidents/Injuries: None reported.
Description: This recall involves RBK and CCM brand hockey helmets. Helmets included in this recall have a HECC sticker with date code JUN – 2013. HECC stickers and model numbers are located on the back of the helmets. Models included in the recall are:
Brand | Model Numbers | Colors Of The Helmet Shells That Require Inspection | Colors Of The Helmet Shells |
RBK | HT8K | Black/Black, Black/Silver, White/Silver, Navy, Red, Green, Maroon, Yellow | White/Black, Royal |
RBK | HT6K | Black, White, Navy, Red, Royal |
|
RBK | HT6K Combo | Black, White, Navy, Red, Royal |
|
RBK | HT4K | Black, Navy, Red, Royal | White |
RBK | HT4K Combo | Navy, Red, Royal | Black, White |
CCM | HTV10 | Yellow | Black, White, Navy, Red, Royal, Green, Maroon |
CCM | HTV10 Combo | Black | White, Navy, Red, Royal |
CCM | HTV08 | Black, White, Royal, Yellow | Navy, Red, Green |
CCM | HTV08 Combo | Black, Medium Black, White, Navy, Royal | Red |
CCM | HT692 | White, Navy | Black, Red, Royal |
CCM | HT692 Combo | Black | White, Navy, Red, Royal |
Sold at: Sporting goods stores nationwide and Internet retailers from May 2008 through July 2008 for between $80 and $200.
Manufactured in: Canada
Remedy: Consumers should immediately stop using and return the helmets to the place of purchase for a free replacement helmet.
Consumer Contact: For additional information, contact Reebok-CCM at (800) 451-4600 between 8 a.m. and 6 p.m. ET Monday through Friday, or visit the firm’s Web site at www.reebokhockey.com and http://en.ccmsports.com
Expert Advice: Selecting the Right Hockey Gloves
There is no right or wrong way to decide which glove is right for your player. Each player is looking for something different. Whether it is the overall fit or desired individual features of the glove, each player has different tastes. If you ask others which is their favorite glove you will get many different answers. The experts have laid out the important factors that you need to know to assist you in finding the glove that best suits your needs.
Generally, the more expensive the glove, the more advanced it will be in protection, the lighter it will be, and it will offer the most features.
Foam Type
Gloves are made with various foams that offer different levels of protection and weight. Add features like PE Inserts or some new technological molded foam, the glove protection and weight factors can change drastically. The most common foam types are explained in more detail below.
Single Density – The single density foam is most widely used in lower end gloves. It is a softer foam, and generally is fairly light. As the years have progressed and more foams have been developed it has allowed glove makers to build single density gloves for really low prices while not loosing any value in the glove.
Dual Density – Dual density foams are a combination of softer single density foams joined together with a harder, lighter and more protective closed cell foam. The softer foam will be closest to your hand to keep the comfort level high and the harder foam is on the outside to absorb the shock. Dual Density foams come in various protection levels depending on the amount of each foam that is used. Dual Density foam is the most widely used foam type as it offers the best combination of protection and weight at the best price.
HD Foam – High-Density foams are becoming more widely used, this is also bringing the price down. HD foams are very protective and light. This foam offers the highest protection of the three types of foam and is normally used in conjunction with a much softer foam for comfort as HD foams are stiff and do not bend easily.
PE Inserts – PE stands for Polyethylene, in other words, plastic. The inserts come in various thicknesses and are use in different areas of the glove. They are inserted between the foam and the outer shell of the glove. Some gloves will have more inserts than others. It would be normal to have them on the back of the hand but not the fingers. Some gloves will have complete PE coverage.
Molded Foam – Molded foams are the newest type of foams. They are molded into hard dense blocks that are shaped to fit around your hand. They are the most protective and lightest of all the foams, however, the most expensive as well.
Fingers
The finger construction of gloves has pretty much evolved to a point where all models are Split-Finger. This means that the fingers are not one piece. The fingers are built in two or three pieces and stitched together. The Split-Finger design has no disadvantages and offers the most flexibility and requires minimal break in time. Glove makers are now adding features like padded fingertips or stretch gussets to make the fingers even more mobile.
Palm
There are more different palm types and materials than you can shake a stick at. The basics you will want to look at are whether it is a single palm or double palm. Obviously the double palm will last longer. More expensive gloves will have more durable materials that offer better feel. Other palm features that are used are grip print, stretch material and antimicrobial materials.
Thumb
Glove makers have been designing new thumb types that offer greater flexibility and dexterity features over the old school lock thumb. All gloves will offer a thumb that will protect against hyperextension. The experts recommend a flexible thumb of some sort. The advantages are greater puck control, and flexibility.
Cuff
There are two basic style of cuffs. The first is the older style that offers a wide opening. This type of cuff offers the most mobility, however, it also has the least protection from slashes and hooks to the wrists. The second type of cuff has many variations. Most glove manufactures are developing cuffs that fit closer the wrist but float, so that you are not exposed to sticks. In order to retain the mobility the glove makers are building cuffs in three or more pieces or attaching them to the glove with stretch materials so mobility is not hindered. Some cuffs are taken one step farther to offer adjustable floating cuffs.
Liner
The most important factor with glove liners is the type of material. There is no protection factor in the liner so you want one that offers comfort. Higher end gloves will offer a more durable better feeling material. Antimicrobial liners are becoming more widely used. These liners are treated to stop the growth of bacteria which cause that awful smell and cause skin irritations.
Shell Material
For the longest time there were only two types of shell materials. The first is the most widely used, leather or synthetic leather. Leather gloves offer the most durability and traditional style. The downfall of leather gloves is that the leather absorbs water from sweat and ice causing them to gain weight throughout a game. Leather gloves also dry out slowly. The other material is nylon. Nylon is basically used on less expensive gloves as it does not cost nearly as much. Nylon, however, is very light and flexible and dries out faster. The downfall is that older style nylons were not durable. Glove makers are now using a higher grade nylon, similar to the nylon used to make snowboard pants, on high end gloves. This allows the manufacturers to capitalize on the advantages of nylon with the added benefit of the durability needed to withstand season after season of hockey.
Editor’s Note: Special thanks to HockeyX for the above article.
How to Choose Hockey Skates for Your Athlete
Skates may be the hardest item to choose. There are many choices at various prices. Following the below steps will help you choose a skate that best suits your needs.What use are you purchasing the skates for?
When buying skates you will want to look for a skate that will fit your needs. If you are a recreational skater that skates a few times a month, then obviously the top performing skate, at the top price, will be way more than you need to spend. If you are a travel player in a highly competitive league and are skating five or more hours a week, then you will want to look for a top level skate as it will offer the performance and longevity you will need. In general, the more expensive a skate is, the higher performance it will offer and the more durable it will be.
Weight
Weight plays a major factor in choosing a skate, for instance, a young player who is just starting out will not need a skate that is overly expensive. Since they do not have much weight and grow like weeds they will grow out of the skate before it breaks down and needs to be replaced. If you are an adult who has stopped growing and do not want to buy a new pair of skates every couple of years you will want to look at a mid level skate at the least. These types of skates will have more durable material in the sides of the boot to keep its shape and support.
Level of play
If you are a travel player in a very competitive league, you will want to look for a top performance skate to give you all the performance advantages that are available. On the other hand if you are just getting started or play in a recreational league, then you will not need to spend that kind of money to get a skate that suits your needs to play and enjoy the great game of hockey.
Amount of play
The more you play the more wear the skate will endure. Skates will break down and crease after time. If you only play once a week then a mid level skate should last five years or more depending on your weight and style of play. On the other hand, if you play in every league you can in a 50 mile radius, chances are you are logging some hours. The more you play the quicker you will wear out the boot. If you are this type of player you will want to look at getting a high mid level to a top performing skate simply for the durability. Some NHL players will go through 6 or more pairs of skates in a year!
Boot
With so many different boot designs on the market, it can get confusing on which is better than the next. Each manufacturer has their own design theories which you will want to read the descriptions on each skate to see if it will fit your needs. There are however, certain characteristics you will want to look for.
Weight - You will want to know the weight of the boot you are looking at as weight has a big impact on leg fatigue.
Fit - Will the boot you are looking at fit your foot? There are basically two types of feet and the same boot will not fit as well on each type of foot. You want to make sure that the boot holds your heel tight with no shifting or sliding. This will give you maximum control.
Tongue - You will want the tongue to have some form of plastic or high density foam insert which performs two tasks; stops lace bit, and adds some protection from flying pucks.
Liner – If you are a tournament player you will want to look for a skate that has a quick dry or moisture wicking liner. I do not think there is anything worse than putting old cold wet skates for three games in a row. These liners will also kill odor causing bacteria.
Ankle Padding – The ankle padding should be form fitting and heat moldable. The ankle padding is what helps the skate form to your fit for the best fit possible.
Outsole – The outsole plays a major roll in weight savings and energy transfer from your legs to the playing surface. Top end models will have full carbon outsoles while lower end skates will have a plastic outsole.
Holders
Holders are an important part of performance. They are like the transmission on a car. You can have all the horsepower possible, but if you do not get that power to the road then you loose much of the performance. There is a fine line in finding the perfect stiffness of a holder. A stiff holder will maximize power but will offer little feel, no rebound for acceleration and will vibrate under hard cornering or stopping. A flexible holder will offer awesome feel and control however, you will loose power. The optimum point is not really known. The Tuuk+ Custom holder is generally regarded as the best on the market. Most NHL players will use this holder regardless of the boot type and it is the holder that all manufactures try to replicate.
Runners
There are two types of runners, stainless steel and carbon steel. Both have advantages and disadvantages. The advantages of stainless steel are; it is a harder, denser metal which will offer better edge retention and it will not rust nearly as easy as carbon steel. The disadvantage of stainless steel is that it will not be as sharp as carbon steel. Carbon steel offers you the advantage of being able to make the edges sharper and easier to sharpen. The disadvantages of carbon are the edges will not stay sharp as long as stainless steel so you will have to sharpen them more often. Also, carbon will rust quickly with the littlest amount of moisture. Most players in the NHL prefer carbon steel, however, they have the luxury of sharpening their skates every day or even in between periods, without having to pay for it either.
Correctly sizing skates
The way to check if a skate fits correctly is to have the skate completely unlaced and slide your foot all the way forward till your toes touch the inside of the toe cap, making sure your toes are flat. Pull the skate back towards you so your knee and ankle are both bent. Check to see how much room or space is between the back of your ankle and the back inside of the skate. The experts recommend that there never be more than ¾” of an inch. If the player is still growing, ¾” should be enough for a years worth of growth. If the player is not growing anymore than you will want almost no space remaining due to the fact that as the skates break in you will actually gain room in the skate.
Editor's Note: Special thanks to HockeyX for the above article.
The Performance Edge of a One-Piece Stick
One-piece sticks are the biggest technological advancement in sticks. There are two types of sticks. One type is fused, which means the blade and shaft come from two different molds and are permanently fused together.The second type is uni-mold. That means the complete stick comes from a single mold. The advantages of the true one-piece sticks is there is no hosel inserted in the shaft so the kickpoint is at the lowest possible spot on the shaft. The stick offers the best feel. One-piece sticks offer the highest performance at the lightest weight.
Performance
Ultimate performance is the design goal of OPS's (one-piece sticks). OPS's offer players the ability to store power up in the shaft, then release at the optimal time during a shot or pass.
Weight
OPS's are lighter than ever. The top sticks are now under 450 grams and feel as light as feather. There are still some players that use slightly heaver OPS's as they desire more feel in their hands. When choosing a stick you want to find the one that feels good to you.
Balance
Balance is an important characteristic in he OPS. Some players like a stick that has a little more weight in the blade and others prefer the stick to be as balanced as possible. Each player has a different and intuitive perspective of what the optimum balance should be.
Material
OPS's are generally made with two types of material. The top performing sticks will be full carbon graphite. Entry level sticks will have some carbon but mainly use a higher content of fiberglass.
Carbon fiber offers more consistency in production, higher performance attributes and is lighter. Fiberglass is more durable than carbon, but it is a heavier material and not as consistent in the manufacturing process. Carbon fiber is graded by its weave thickness, weight and tensile strength. The highest grade carbon is aerospace-grade. Even though it is the most expensive, aerospace-grade carbon will offer the greatest consistency, performance and durability compared to other types of carbon.
Construction
The two most common manufacturing processes are compression molding and bladder molding. Compression molding is achieved by using a mandrel, then wrapping it with the desired material and applying the resin. The mold is then compressed to form around the mandrel. The shape of the mandrel will dictate the handle style.
Bladder molding uses an air bladder with the material wrapped around it in a mold. The air bladder is then inflated to press the resin into the carbon fiber against the inner walls of the mold. This process allows for a more consistent resin transfer into the carbon.
Compression molding can cause some irregularities and the resin can be thicker in some areas and thinner in others. The bladder molding process will be more consistent and evenly distributed.
Shaft Style
Every manufacturer will offer different shaft shapes. The shape of the shaft is again a personal preference. Some shafts will have standard corners while others will have rounded corners, dog bone-shaped corners or perhaps asymmetrical where the one side is concave and the other is standard.
Taper
OPS's get thinner as you go down the shaft toward the blade. This is referred to as the taper. Tapers vary in length and thickness from model to model. The design of the taper is to lower the kickpoint of the stick. The lower the kickpoint, the more power, consistency and accuracy the stick will give you.
Flex
There are two big misconceptions in what flex you should use. The first is that the more flexible a stick is, the easier it will break. This statement is simply false.
Second, we see coaches telling 10-year-old players (and their parents) to use an intermediate stick because of the bigger blade. Even though the blade is bigger, using an intermediate stick will do a young player more harm than good. To start, the stick will be too stiff, then it will have to be cut down to size. This will make the stick even stiffer, the player will not be able to flex the stick and this will lower his shot velocity.
The shaft is also thicker, which means the shaft will not fit comfortably in their hands and will be too bulky. Newton 's second law of physics states, “The acceleration of an object as produced by a net force is directly proportional to the magnitude of the net force, in the same direction as the net force, and inversely proportional to the mass of the object.” In hockey terms this means, the more you can flex the stick, the more energy or forward force you will generate to produce harder, faster shots.
We suggest using the most flexible shaft you can, without overpowering it. This will help you maximize your shot velocity. Most NHL players use 100-flex shafts except the real big boys. Brett Hull used an 80-flex. Why do you think he could flex the sick so much?
Length
Every player likes their stick a different length. As a rule of thumb, your stick should be anywhere from below your chin to about your nose. A shorter stick will make stickhandling easier and offer more accuracy for wrist shots and snap shots. A longer stick will be better for stick checks and slap shots because it will be easier to load the stick for more power.
Grip
Some shafts come with a grip coating. There are many different variations available. Grip coatings will keep the stick from twisting in your hand during shooting and stickhandling. That gives you more control.
Editor's note: Special thanks to HockeyX for this article.
Fitting a Player in the Right Shoulder Pads
When looking at which shoulder pads to buy you will want to ask yourself a couple questions.1. Analyze your playing style. Are you a defense specialist, finesse forward or power forward? There are pads for each of these styles.
2. The second question is what level of play are you competing in? A beginner, a travel player or higher, or are you an old timer? The answers to these questions will dictate the type of shoulder pad protection you need. Feel free to ask teammates, other parents, coaches or others in the know what pads they like and/or recommend.
Shoulder pads come in various designs. Some are bigger for the big hitter and others are lightweight and offer total mobility for the playmaker, but at the expense of protection. You need to find which works for you. There is always a trade-off between mobility and protection. There are many features and designs that are available for any type of player.
Foam Type
Shoulder pads are built with various foam structures that offer different levels of protection and weight. The most common foam types are explained in more detail below.
Single-density – The single-density foam is most widely used in lower-end shoulder pads. It is a softer foam that is comfortable and fairly light. The single-density foam will offer the least protection.
Dual-density – Dual-density foams are a combination of softer single density foams joined together with a harder, lighter and more protective closed-cell foam. The softer foam will be closest to your shoulder to keep the comfort level high, while the harder foam is on the outside. Dual-density foams come in various protection levels depending on the amount of each foam that is used. Dual-density foam is the most widely used foam type as it offers the best combination of protection and weight at the best price.
HD foam – HD or high-density foams are becoming more widely used, in part because it allows manufacturers to bring down the price. HD foams are highlt protective and light. This foam offers the highest protection of the three types of foam and is normally used in conjunction with a much softer foam for comfort because HD foams are stiff and do not bend easily.
Shoulder Caps
All cap designs on shoulder pads are made from high impact plastic. There are different sizes for different types of players. The big hitter will need a bigger shoulder cap to give full protection and maximum use of higher level protective characteristics. The finesse player will look for a pad that has smaller, low-profile caps to maximize agility and mobility. An important factor in the fit of the caps is how they are attached to the pad. Some are attached directly to the pad. Others are attached with short tethers; this design allows for more fluid movement and actually lets the cap float with the shoulder.
Bicep
Some cool features are emerging in bicep protection design, such as heat moldable pads. Other cool features include innovative attachment designs and segmented pads that act as an armadillo shell to maximize coverage and mobility.
Sternum and Spine
The sternum protection is the most important part of a shoulder pad. This pad will protect the heart from taking a direct hit from a puck. There are various protection designs from the use of different foams to air or gel bladders to absorb the shock. The more segmented the sternum, the more mobility you will have. The spine is important for the players who are playing at a higher level or occupy the real estate in front of the opposing team's net. Repeated cross checks can take a toll on your back and you will want shock-absorbing materials to withstand season after season of punishment. Like the sternum protection, the more segmented this pad, the more mobility it will offer.
Clavicle
More thought has also gone into the clavicle design to help protect you from odd-angle hits and falling into the boards when hit from behind. Clavicle protection comes in various forms with some offering additional features like heat moldable pads.
Abdominal Pad
Most shoulder pads come with an adjustable/removable belly pad. The use of this pad comes down to personal preference. The type of pant and amount of frontal protection may influence your decision. If you are a defenseman or like to block shots you may want to leave in.
Liner
The most important factor with shoulder pad liners is the type of material. There is no protection factor in the liner, so you want one that offers comfort. Higher-end shoulder pads will offer a more durable, better feeling material. Some manufactures use a silicon grip-print to lock the pad to the shoulder. Antimicrobial liners are becoming more widely used. These liners are treated to stop the growth of bacteria which cause that awful smell and cause skin irritations.
Editor’s Note: Special thanks to HockeyX for the above article.
How to Heat Mold Skates at Home
Do you remember soaking skates in hot water or any other crazy way to break in skates? Things are easier now, just get them heat molded and you have cut down the break in time by up to 80%.Problem is not every hockey store has a skate baking oven or there is no hockey store anywhere near your town. Problem solved, follow these few instructions and you will enjoy the added value of having your skates broken in much quicker without going through all the discomfort of breaking them in by skating only. All you need is an oven, baking sheet and your skates.
Step One – Preparation
Preparing the Oven - Turn the oven on and set it to 180 degrees Fahrenheit. Once the Oven is hot enough turn it off. Bench Warning – Never leave the oven on while the skates are in the oven, skate baking is an expression not a desert. All you are trying to do is heat up the memory foams, not cook a pot roast.
Preparing the Skates - Be sure to lace the skates up very loose. You do not want to be pulling and yanking the skate into different positions while it is hot, this is how bad things happen to skates. If you are baking inline skates remove the wheels. Place skates on a baking sheet unless you want it to look like a piece of choice beef that just got seared on the pit. Bet you Bar-B-Q tonight!
Step Two – Heat Skate
When the oven is at the correct temperature TURN IT OFF! Place skates in the oven on the baking sheet. As mentioned earlier all you want to do is warm up the memory foams not bake the skates. Check your boots every few minutes to be sure that they are ok and becoming soft. Check with the heat molding instructions that came with your skates to get actual heating times. Generally 8 to 10 minutes is all you need. Take the boot out sooner if the ankle foams are sufficiently soft for molding.
Step Three – Mold Skates
Lace the skates up very tight, we like to do it tighter than you would normally wear them. Start at the bottom and make sure they are tight, even if they are not when you skate, remember we want to mold the skate to your foot. Continue up the boot till you are finished. When tightening the skate, always pull out on the laces so you do not put pressure on the eyelets. Bench Warning – Do not pull up on the laces as you tighten the skate, you will run the risk of pulling an eyelet out of your brand new skate which will not be covered by warranty.
Step Four – Kickback and Watch the Game
After you have both skates laced up grab the remote and watch your favorite team whip up on someone. Make sure you sit, do not walk at all. Keep your legs in front of you with the blade or chassis flat on the floor. Do not flex the front, back or sides of the boots. (Insert Picture) After about 15 minutes the boots will be cooled down enough to take them off. Again be careful and pull the laces out without yanking on the eyelets. Allow the skates to cool for 24 hours before skating in them.
Editor's Note: Special thanks to Hockey X for sharing the above article.
How to Clean Stinky Hockey Equipment
We all know how bad our kid’s hockey equipment can stink. To get rid of that funky smell, here’s how. First there's a list of what you will need then there are instructions for how to clean your kid's stinky hockey equipment:Here's what you will need: Dirty hockey gear, 35-50 gallon plastic/rubber trash can, swimming pool chlorine, and garden hose.
Step 1: Place an appropriate amount of pool chlorine (ratios are usually found somewhere on the chlorine container label) in the trash can and fill about 1/4 full with water to begin diluting. To hold a full set of adult gear, you'll need between a 35 gallon and 50 gallon trash can.
Step 2: Throw in your dirty gear and continue filling completely with water.
Step 3: Allow to soak for 3-6 hours.
Step 4: Remove equipment and hang to dry. Discard water.
Special Notes:
- Hot tub chlorine can be substituted for pool chlorine, however take care with the instructions as it's usually more concentrated.
- You may find your hockey gear is too buoyant to stay in the can. Put the trash can lid on and place some rocks or bricks on top to keep your gear submerged.
Special thanks to www.eHow.com for the steps and notes.

